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Keith’s Blog: Winter Storage, Part II

Keith Martin

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions in response to last week’s blog about storing your car in the winter.

Here are a few more thoughts.

First of all, I prefer to always store my convertibles with the top up and stretched, especially the rear plastic window. If the stop is stored folded, I believe the canvas shrinks, and certainly the rear window will be creased.

Reduce the humidity. Especially if your car is in an unheated area, invest in a couple of Dri-Z-Air pots. They are available on Amazon for under $15. Set one in each car, either coupes or convertibles with the top up. I was amazed at how much water they suck out of the air.

This is a bit farther afield, but if your car has easily removeable seat cushions, now is the time to take them to an upholsterer for new foam or stuffing. The driver’s seat is always broken down, and you will be amazed at how much better you feel, and higher you sit, with a rebuilt cushion.

Finally, if you don’t already have one, install a battery cutoff switch. With newer cars, do some investigation as some modern cars lose their electronic brains if they are disconnected from the battery, and sometimes that requires a service call from a dealer to get them working right again. It’s no problem with an analog car, and I have disconnected batteries that sit for over a month and then fire a car right up.

Several of you suggested using a fuel additive. I try to fill my tanks to the top with non-ethanol fuel as part of the storage process as well. If you use an additive, be sure to run your engine for a few minutes to get the additive mixed in the tank as well as into the fuel delivery system, be it fuel injected or carbureted.

Finally, I don’t have an opinion about tire pressures. I just make sure mine are at the normal level I run them at (usually 28-32 psi) and just check them before I take the car out for a test.

In the end, nothing beats having your car started once every two weeks and taking it for a 20-minute freeway run to get all the fluids warmed and the moving parts moving.

In spring, it’s much more fun to hop into your car, fire it up and head out for a drive than it is to hear that discouraging “click click click” when you turn the key. Even if your carburetor jets are only partially clogged, that can cause your car to spit and wheeze until it clears its throat.

I look forward to reading any other thoughts you have in the comments below.

Topping Jag off with non-ethanol
No battery cutoff for Lotus
Top goes up before storage on the Alfa

Read my previous blog posts here.

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Keith Martin Avatar
Keith Martin
Keith Martin has been involved with the collector car hobby for more than 40 years. As a writer, publisher, television commentator and enthusiast, he is constantly on the go, meeting collectors and getting involved in their activities throughout the world. He is the founder and publisher of the monthly Sports Car Market, now in its 37th year. Keith has written for the New York Times, Automobile, AutoWeek, Road & Track and other publications, has been an emcee for numerous concours, and had his own show, “What’s My Car Worth,” shown on Velocity. He has received many honors, including the Lee Iacocca Award, the Edward Herrmann Award, was inducted into the Concorso Italiano Hall of Fame, and more. He has served on the board of directors of The LeMay Museum and Oregon Ballet Theater, and was formerly the chair of the board of the Meguiar’s Award.

3 responses to “Keith’s Blog: Winter Storage, Part II”

  1. Scott Crammer Avatar
    Scott Crammer

    Yes, convertible soft tops should always be stored in the upright position. Leaving the top down for extended periods is a sure fire way to weaken the materials and reduce its life span.

    Personally, I don’t store my cars for the winter, despite living in southeastern PA. I have two Mazda MX-5 roadsters – 1991 and 2021 – and make sure to drive each at least once a week. My 1991 is always garaged.

    I recognize these vehicles are not six-figure collectors, but someday I hope to have one or two or four of those, with a particular hope of adding 911s. And if I do, I will still drive them year round, strategically avoiding salt, snow and ice.

    Reply
  2. Captain Dave Avatar
    Captain Dave

    Agree on the humidity, but any measures taken are moot unless you measure the results. If you have a garage, get at least two temperature/humidity meters. I aim for 45%, but my garage is heated in the winter, so it’s easy to get that. I have two dehumidifiers that run in the summer months. The humidity meters aren’t expensive. Another cheap item: mousetraps. My garage is pretty well sealed but I still scatter a few around. After I warm up the engine, I put a couple extra ones by each tire. Happy hibernation!

    Reply
  3. K Selyan Avatar
    K Selyan

    Excellent winter storage overview, and suggestions.

    I have two cars stored in my heated garage. I do, and have done, virtually everything that you have outlined for years.

    One is always on a factory tender, so I don’t worry about the battery, however , I start it every few weeks, and move it around the driveway while it fully warms up.
    The other, I will take it for a run when the roads are dry. Of course, living in the northwest, the roads are not frequently dry during our “ rainy season “( winter months)!

    Merry Christmas to all!

    Reply

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