Keith’s Blog: More Christmas Wishes

Keith Martin Avatar

Last week we talked about the care and feeding of SCM’s 2006 Lotus Elise, 1971 Mercedes 250C and 2000 Land Rover Discovery II and what they each needed to be considered “in service.” Our 1971 Jaguar E-type V12 coupe has turned out to be our “go-to” car for long distance tours. It’s covered over 6,000 miles and three tours since we bought it in April of 2020. We just had it serviced by Ed Grayson of Consolidated Auto Works. He changed the oil, replaced the rear brake pads to alleviate squeaking when cold and showed Bradley what to do when the […]


4 responses to “Keith’s Blog: More Christmas Wishes”

  1. James Holbrook Avatar

    Would love you to share what the “fix” is when the master cylinder overheats and locks up on a SIII e-type. Thanks!

  2. anatoly arutunoff Avatar

    my 3z ferrari would occasionally–but rarely–start dragging the brakes, generally when cold. i learned to pop the brake pedal, hard and quick, and the brakes returned to normal. the lovely machine also ‘drank’ a teensy amount of brake fluid through the miles. probably a ver small leak in the powerbrake diaphragm. i warned the buyer of the problem; never heard any complaints. he had the zagato body removed and the car reconstructed as the alloy 250 swb spider it was originally. i’d love to know where that zagato body went…merry Christmas everybody!

  3. David Hay Avatar

    on the “accident” – a few months ago my ’88 928S4 suffered a similar incident, guy in an SUV (of course), in a parking garage, couldn’t negotiate the turn to the garage exit, so backed up and hit the passenger side (dent on rear fender lip, multiple dents on passenger door. The explanation? “I couldn’t see it”. This should never be an explanation for someone driving!! Greetings of the season to all!

  4. Michael T Calkins Avatar

    I have never heard of a master cylinder that overheated and seized. More likely is that the car’s brake fluid was not regularly changed over the years, with the result that moisture absorbed by the fluid caused corrosion of the cylinder bore and/or pistons that caused one or both pistons to stick. The only acceptable fix for this issue is to rebuild or replace the master cylinder. Proper and reliable brake operation is critical to your safety and that of other people on the road.